Bridget Macdonald/MNS
Mike Robb bastes venison meatloaf at DC Central Kitchen, which receives deer meat from Maryland-based Farmers and Hunters Feeding the Hungry. Robb said nobody detects the “wild” flavor in dishes from lasagna with venison to Salisbury venison steaks.
WASHINGTON – Every fall, the Frederick Community Action Agency’s food bank features meat that is genuinely free range: Maryland white-tailed deer.
“It’s a huge, huge benefit,” said nutrition coordinator Sarah McAleavy, explaining that during hunting season the agency receives about 20 free deer each week, amounting to more than 4,000 pounds of meat.
She said most people seem to enjoy the “wild” entrees ranging from venison roasts to spaghetti with ground venison that are served at the soup kitchen in Frederick, a community in Maryland about 30 miles north of Washington.
D.C. Central Kitchen, a food bank committed to using sustainable produce, picked up 3,000 pounds of Maryland deer this week.
“Not only is it healthy and free of antibiotics,” said procurement coordinator Erin Littlestar, “it’s free.” The program uses deer in dishes like venison lasagna and venison meatloaf. She said all have been well received.
“It’s very nutritious, lower in fat than beef and definitely a good food item for those in need,” said Josh Wilson, director of operations for Farmers and Hunters Feeding the Hungry, which distributes local game to food programs throughout the state.
Founded in 1997, the Williamsport, Md.-based organization now has 140 chapters in 30 states, where soaring deer populations are being seen as a way to address a growing national hunger problem.
On Monday, the Department of Agriculture released a grim report indicating that more families struggled to put food on the table in 2008 than in any year since the agency began tracking hunger levels in 1995.
Mike Gillespie of the Washington-based Capital Area Food Bank said phone calls to the Hunger Lifeline, which directs people to nearby food banks, have doubled in the last several months. “Unfortunately, the need is constant these days,” he said.
Although Gillespie said food banks probably prefer turkey or beef to more exotic meats like venison, “We need all the protein we can get.”
Added benefit: Controlling the deer population
Since the mid-1990s, wildlife managers have been looking for creative ways to eliminate deer in Maryland communities where herds are pushing both environmental and social boundaries. As in many parts of the country, increasing automobile strikes and crop damage have turned the graceful mammals into threats to life and livelihood.
This year Farmers and Hunters Feeding the Hungry has partnered with the Maryland Farm Bureau and Maryland Grain Producers to sponsor the first annual Doe Harvest Challenge, an effort to thin herds in agricultural areas and boost donations of venison to food banks.
By providing a competitive incentive, the Doe Challenge has targeted both issues. Farm Bureau representative Ken Fuchs said in each of the five cycles during the 15-week contest, hunters who donate game are eligible for a $400 gift certificate to an outdoor store and a commemorative buck knife. “We like to think it’s a win-win situation,” said Fuchs.
Robert Beyer of the Maryland Department of Natural Resource added at least one more “win,” saying the program has provided an immeasurable public service. “As a society, we all benefit: it manages deer, provides food, and helps reduce damage to crops.” Not to mention, sportsmen have an excuse to continue hunting once they have filled their own freezers.
Beyer said the state had tried raising the bag limit to motivate hunters, but that the introduction of a moral imperative has had the biggest impact on the numbers of deer killed. The statewide population was about 229,000 in 2008, down 22 percent from a high of 295,000 in 2002.
“Last year we killed 100,000 deer. Can you imagine if those 100,000 deer were alive and able to breed, what kind of problems we’d have?” asked Beyer.
In addition to keeping the animals from running rampant, he pointed out that the program is saving the state a lot of money. In urban and suburban areas that are closed to recreational hunters, officials have had to hire task forces of sharp shooters to pick-off pesky deer.
The meat from these special operations is donated to food banks as well, but Beyer said it’s not cheap, explaining, “To shoot, gut, skin and process a deer, it’s a lot of work.” Farmers and Hunters for Feeding the Hungry raises the money to cover the cost of processing the venison it receives from recreational hunters.
However, the difficulty of certifying butchers has created a bottleneck for the program. McAleavy said only three butchers in Frederick participate. “If there were more, we could get more meat,” she said.
Even so, 244 deer were donated in Frederick County last year, the third highest number in the state after Caroline and Caroll Counties.
Yet some are concerned that financial difficulties could put pressure on the donation program this year. Fuchs said its possible many hunters will want to keep more meat for themselves given the down economy.
But Wilson maintained a more charitable outlook. “One of our thoughts has been that in outlying areas, folks may be quicker to know specifically a person in need.” So while donations to food banks might go down, the meat is still likely to go to those who are hungry.
Wilson said the primary firearms season starts on the Saturday after Thanksgiving. He expects hunters, farmers and food banks will have plenty to be thankful for that weekend.